ZalaZ

Snowshoe paradise

Vlatko — Mon, 30 Mar 2020 16:39:18 +0000

Dutch group of 6 members from NKBV mountain club asked for a snow-shoeing tour of Montenegro in March 2019. They shared this adventure’s memories:

Some members of the ‘zwerftochten’ hiking group of the Dutch mountain club NKBV, in March of this year visited a beautiful mountainous area in Montenegro, near Kolašin (Колашин), in the north east of the country and made a snowshoe tour there. The main range there is called Bjelasica (Бјеласица). This area is very suitable for snowshoe walking, because it is not as steep as some other mountainous areas in Montenegro, like for instance Durmitor (Дурмитор). Near Bjelasica is the Komovi (Комови) range, where the group ended the tour.
Making this tour was a nice combination of an outdoor activity in a quiet and beautiful area and of getting to know our neighbours in the Balkan. Something we have done more often, like during our visit to the Rugova (Kosovo).

Practicalities:

This tour is new and was made possible by Vlatko Bulatovic of guide agency Zalaz. He arranged for us that local accomodations like the Krivi Do hut were open and could offer meals and sleeping facilities. He also took care of avalanche equipment and daily testing of the stuff. Vlatko is a great companion with thorough knowledge of the area; he also was very kind and helpful about us getting back home in corona-times.

Link to the article about this adventure is published on NKBV website:
https://zwerftochten.nkbv.nl/nieuws/montenegro-snow-shoe-paradise.html

True hiking paradise

Vlatko — Thu, 07 Nov 2019 13:23:02 +0000

In Oct/Nov 2019, Barteld Schutyser with his lovely family made a hiking tour in south of Montenegro, tailored by their preference:

Vlatko and all people in his network are professional, kind, reliable and discreet.
They are very proud about their country and rightfully so, it is a true hiking paradise but on a human scale.

Just wanted to say thank you

Vlatko — Fri, 20 Sep 2019 10:16:57 +0000

Ian McClelland from UK and his friends did a self-guided exploration of Bjelasica and Komovi mountains, asking for ZalaZ support in September 2019:

Hi Vlatko

I just wanted to say thank you for supplying such a great team last week. Claudio and his team were fantastic and the advice you gave very helpful.

I look forward to returning next year with more people and will definitely be in touch

Many thanks
Ian

What a joyful experience

Vlatko — Mon, 24 Jun 2019 09:00:10 +0000

Israel group of 11 made a guided hiking/rafting tour in northern mountains of Montenegro. Their impressions:

Dear Vlatko,

What a joyful experience we had in Montenegro thanks to you and our guide – Ruzica.

All through our expedition, things were organized very efficiently. One evening, when we complained about our accommodation, Ruzica and you solved it instantly and it became an unforgettable stay.

Ruzica was a pleasant and kind person. We all enjoyed her company and gained a lot from the love and pride she has to your homeland. Indeed, what a beautiful place.

On behalf of all the members of the group we thank you both, and hope that we will meet again.

All the best,
Iris

We really liked it

Vlatko — Sun, 09 Jun 2019 07:52:32 +0000

Two super fit buddies, Lorenz and Daniel experienced our “track the roots” Mediterranean route in June 2019. Their impressions are below:

Hi Vlatko,

We completed the tour on Friday and overall we really liked it, even though the weather was only so-so for the first couple of days.

All the hosts were super friendly and we really liked staying with them. They welcomed us as friends.

Some of the hikes were really spectacular, although overall I would say that for a fit hiker they were on the easy side even with the extensions.

The trek from Ceklin to Poseljani is amazing and also the hike from the lake to Stari Bar. And Perast to Kotor is absolutely great and a perfect way to get going. We thought the hike from Njegusi to Ivanova Korita was a bit short and ultimately there isn’t much to do there.

The one hike we didn’t like was from Ivanova Korita to Cetinje and the first part from Cetinje to Ceklin. From Ivanova Korita to Cetinje the trail is a lot of road, quite overgrown in some places, and ultimately it crosses a rubbish dump. Then on the second part coming out of Cetinje you have to walk along a really busy and dangerous road for a short while. So we thought that could be improved. Maybe you want to take another look at it.

One other thing for you to be aware of: on the hike from the lake to Gornji Murici just when you get to the village, the trail is barricaded. We got around the gate, but there was a lot of building activity in the village and it seems that they were trying to erect gates across the marked trail. So you may want to watch that.

Anyway, thanks for arranging a lovely trip. You have a great thing going. The country is beautiful and the people are so friendly and relaxed. Montenegro is great !

All the best,
Lorenz and Daniel

Very pleased with our trek

Vlatko — Thu, 30 Aug 2018 10:53:54 +0000

Group of Sweden self-guided friends was supported by ZalaZ during their “Peaks of the Balkans” trekking:

Dear Vlatko,

I just want to tell you that we are all now back in Sweden and that we were very pleased with our trek. Excellent sceneries, excellent people, very good food. As I told you, everything worked out fine with the guesthouses and route finding. Even the slivovica we got in Plav was excellent. I will highly recommend people here in Sweden this trek and your services.

Good luck with everyting.

Anders

anders@wentzel.nu

The landscape is fantastic

Vlatko — Wed, 08 Aug 2018 09:53:10 +0000

In Summer 2018, Isabelle Harbrecht with her companion trekked our “track the roots” route and sent her impressions:

We did the self-guided Track the Roots Tour with ZalaZ last August and had a fantastic time. It is the perfect way to explore Montenegro and although we were warned about the hot weather it was actually really pleasant in the mountains. The landscape is fantastic. The hikes are beautiful and there is an appropriate mix between challenging days and easier, more relaxed days. Overall I would say that this tour is for hikers who either hike rather regularly or have done multiple day trips before. However, my companion, who is pretty new to hiking in general and a city dweller, was also able to do and enjoy it.
The paths are off the beaten track and some were really overgrown. You will definitly get away from the tourist crowds who roam Montenegro in summer but we would also recommend renting the GPS because if you get lost, there is nobody around to ask
The organization by ZalaZ is perfect. There is always somebody available via phone or WhatsApp and you will have a wide variety of accomodation which includes homestays with local families, wooden huts and, the nicest surprise of all of them, a really nice 4 star hotel with fantastic mountain views.
I can definitly recommend Zalaz for people who want to enjoy nature and local culture away from the crowds.”

It was a dream

Vlatko — Thu, 12 Apr 2018 08:12:00 +0000

In April 2018, two cheerful Dutch ladies, Marjolijn and Liesbeth trekked the Mediterranean part of Montenegro. Marjolijn wrote the day-by-day diary:

Track the Roots in Montenegro
Zalaz
12-19 of April 2018, Marjolijn and Liesbeth

We arrived at Dubrovnik Airport half an hour late. But that is, what we learned later on, not a problem for Vlatko and his relaxed Montenegrin friends. The sun is shining and after a scenic route along the coast of Montenegro we arrive in Perast, the start of our six days hiking trip. Fresh seabass is prepared for us at dinner time.

The next morning we visit the small island in front of us in the bay; “Our Lady of the Rocks”. After that the boatman drops us of on the other side of the bay. A steep climb to an ancient village follows and our muscles are put to work straight away. We enjoy beautiful views, an abundance of wild flowers and we are sad about the loss of a pair of hiking boots. The hole sole comes off on top of the mountain and with some inventity my friend makes it down to Kotor alright.
We ring Vlatko for advice where to buy new shoes and Jadranka, his collegue, helps us out.

The next morning we hike the old city walls of Kotor, together with hundreds of tourist. But once we crowl through the “Alice-in-wonderland-hole in the wall”, we enter a totally different world. A lush green field, the remains of an old church, a big tree with a donkey grazing underneath. It’s a fairytale landscape and our camera’s run soon out of battery. Another steep climb follows with amazing views and a stream where we can fill our waterbottles. Just after lunchtime we reached Krstac pub where we order a salad, without tomatoes, because they are finished. Not to worry, we will have lots of tomatoes in the week to come and their taste is incredable! At the end of the afternoon we walk into Njegusi village and soon ten wooden cabins appear in sight. One will be ours for the night. A cold beer and a lovely lamb dinner do us good and we tuck in early fort he night. Tired from walking and all the impressions.

The next morning the sky is grey and we are a little confused about which path to take. Vlatko mentioned snow and the use of gaiters and GPS. We follow the GPS trail for a while and then turn it off the spare batteries. I read the map, but end up taking a different trail than Vlatko had in mind for us. We have some rain, and some snow covered trails, but nothing too difficult and we reach Hotel Monte Rosa mid-afternoon. What a surprise when the receptionist asks us if she would start the jaccusi for us!! Yes yes!!

A long day ahead of us, we make an early start. We entered Cetinje and visited the Monastery. Not in the mood for a museum, we are eager to walk again after a nice lunch. Again a steep climb rewarded with lots of flowers, blossoming fruittrees and even orchids! Passing a house we are waved in and offered a drink. We don’t speak the same language, but make a nice conversation about humming bees and gard dogs. The lady of the house brews us a nice mountain tea and we both buy a kilo of honey. After showing photo’s of our families, we go on our way again to find our place for the night. It is the familyhouse of Balsa, over more than 600 years. He is proud to tell us about it and shows us the paintings of his father, a famous a painter. The rest of the night we enjoy his stories, his raki and the lovely food prepared by his wife.

We sleep well and after breakfast, (fresh yoghurt, what a delight after the raki night ☺) we are on our way for a hike to Skadar lake, where a boatman is waiting for us. Our legs get a welcome rest while we can still enjoy the beuatiful countryside. We are unlucky in spotting Pelicans, but we are taken to a fish restaurant that hasn’t opened for he season yet, but the owner is more than happy to prepare us a wonderful lunch with freshly catched fishes. During the lunch we had a stunning view over the lake. From the restaurant it is another hour and a half by boat to Virpazar old town, and our place fort he night. We find the mountain-tea in a shop and we stroll up the hill to visit the castle. It is closed, but we find a rock in the sun, which gives us a beautiful view and the frogs treat us to a concert. The view over Skadar Lake, the biggest bird sanctuary of Europe, is stunning an we count ourselves blessed.

Breakfast next morning is pommygranate juice and fleshly fried doughballs. Very nice!
Another good start to a beautiful hiking day. We meet Balsa again as he is our driver to the start of this last day of walking. He knows the road by heart. I’m glad to be on my two feet again when we arrive. The road is narrow and curvy and the mountains are steep. Soon we are back on track, together with a flock of goats. They are not panting as I am, climbing up the hill, 700 altitude meters. A green lizzard is posing for us in the sun. We can take his picture. Over more than 400 pictures we took already! Tinned sardines with bread and tomatoes are our lunch on top of Belj. Ridge. What a stunning place with views to lake Skadar on the one side and the Adriatic on the other. Coming down proves a bit of a challenge; 700 altitude meters again and sometimes just a steel cable to hold on to. Just as we enter Stari Bar, Blavor is waiting for us and the last pictures are taken. Just in time, before he escaped into the very old olive trees.
We deceive a large and cold beer in Kula Hotel. We say cheers to the great trip, the hike, our friendship and life overall. How much did we enjoy it!!

Our backpacks filled with honey, olive oil and wine we meet Vlatko again at half past five in the morning. He will drive us back to Dubrovnik Airport. A scenic and enjoyable ride along he coast with lots of stories about the fantastic week we had.

Thank you Vlatko and friends, for sharing your country, stories, food, looks on life and hospitality!!

Marjolijn & Liesbeth

Recommendation from Nancy, Ron and Gillian

Vlatko — Mon, 02 Apr 2018 22:04:41 +0000

In early Spring 2018, Nancy, Ron and Gillian had a tailored guiding tour in Mediterranean part of Montenegro. Here are Nancy’s impressions:

My family of three has just returned from a hiking/driving journey in Montenegro, organized by Vlatko Bulatović of ZalaZ and his colleague Dare. We explored the areas around Stari Bar, Skadar Lake and Kotor Bay. If you would like to experience a country of extreme natural and unspoiled beauty, I cannot make a higher recommendation. Vlatko navigates his native country well, with expertise and grace – the trails, the history and culture, and the food. He is extremely fit and he is certainly not old in the literal sense, but he is an old soul with a profound appreciation of the spirit of the place. Further, he is thoughtful and perceptive. He will tailor your itinerary to suit your needs and provide many rich experiences along the way. Montenegro is a fascinating and enchanting place and Vlatko provides a perfect introduction.

Track the Roots /Durmitor-Tara extended/ tour

Vlatko — Thu, 14 Sep 2017 00:49:54 +0000

Gesa and Matthias from Germany did the self-guided trek in south&north of Montenegro, September 2017. Here is their feedback:

Dear Vlatko,

our Montenegrin adventure was great fun. We enjoyed the hiking very much. All the sections had a proper distance and were very scenic. So we did never get bored. Some ascents were quite demanding, but it was always worth the effort. And we enjoyed the hard parts just as much as the easy ones. We liked best the great variety of landscapes along the track: Leading us from the Bay of Kotor up to Jezerski Vrh an then down to Lake Skadar within only 6 days was really amazing. And you did also pick very cozy accomodations. Each of them was a surprise to us. Because they were all special in their very own way. And all of our hosts did a great job as well. To sum up, we have to say that we liked EVERYTHING!

Nevertheless, we would like to point out some things that were our top favourites:
Best hiking section: Kotor-Njegusi
Best accomodation: Mr. Tatar at Ceklin (see attachment)
Best food: Restaurant at Karuc
Best transfer: our boat trip on Lake Skadar (our captain did a very good job)

And it was also good to go to Durmitor after doing Track the Roots. That way we did experience a totally different part of Montenegro. And the rafting at Tara was a highlight of our trip. There happened to be a kayak festival at Camp Grab at that time. That was very entertaining.

I believe you prefer an accurate feedback, so appart from all the positive things I would like to tell you some minor drawbacks that we did not like so much: Our accomodation at Njegusi was comfortable and beautifully located. We liked them very much, but our mattrasses were a disaster. You could feel every single spring.
The second thing I have to mention is our room at Camp Grab: We did not stay in one of the wooden cabins, but in a double room. Unfortunately there was no heating. We were told that electricity was too weak for heating. And it did get freezing cold at night. Our room was at a shady spot so it did not heat up during the daytime as well. Our window did not close properly, so it was almost like camping. Unfortunately we were not prepared for camping. So our last two nights were a bit extreme.

But nevertheless our trip was very, very good. And we are very happy that we entrusted you with the arrangements. You did a great job. Thank you!

Best regards
Gesa & Matthias