ZalaZ » track the roots – individual

We really liked it

Vlatko — Sun, 09 Jun 2019 07:52:32 +0000

Two super fit buddies, Lorenz and Daniel experienced our “track the roots” Mediterranean route in June 2019. Their impressions are below:

Hi Vlatko,

We completed the tour on Friday and overall we really liked it, even though the weather was only so-so for the first couple of days.

All the hosts were super friendly and we really liked staying with them. They welcomed us as friends.

Some of the hikes were really spectacular, although overall I would say that for a fit hiker they were on the easy side even with the extensions.

The trek from Ceklin to Poseljani is amazing and also the hike from the lake to Stari Bar. And Perast to Kotor is absolutely great and a perfect way to get going. We thought the hike from Njegusi to Ivanova Korita was a bit short and ultimately there isn’t much to do there.

The one hike we didn’t like was from Ivanova Korita to Cetinje and the first part from Cetinje to Ceklin. From Ivanova Korita to Cetinje the trail is a lot of road, quite overgrown in some places, and ultimately it crosses a rubbish dump. Then on the second part coming out of Cetinje you have to walk along a really busy and dangerous road for a short while. So we thought that could be improved. Maybe you want to take another look at it.

One other thing for you to be aware of: on the hike from the lake to Gornji Murici just when you get to the village, the trail is barricaded. We got around the gate, but there was a lot of building activity in the village and it seems that they were trying to erect gates across the marked trail. So you may want to watch that.

Anyway, thanks for arranging a lovely trip. You have a great thing going. The country is beautiful and the people are so friendly and relaxed. Montenegro is great !

All the best,
Lorenz and Daniel

The landscape is fantastic

Vlatko — Wed, 08 Aug 2018 09:53:10 +0000

In Summer 2018, Isabelle Harbrecht with her companion trekked our “track the roots” route and sent her impressions:

We did the self-guided Track the Roots Tour with ZalaZ last August and had a fantastic time. It is the perfect way to explore Montenegro and although we were warned about the hot weather it was actually really pleasant in the mountains. The landscape is fantastic. The hikes are beautiful and there is an appropriate mix between challenging days and easier, more relaxed days. Overall I would say that this tour is for hikers who either hike rather regularly or have done multiple day trips before. However, my companion, who is pretty new to hiking in general and a city dweller, was also able to do and enjoy it.
The paths are off the beaten track and some were really overgrown. You will definitly get away from the tourist crowds who roam Montenegro in summer but we would also recommend renting the GPS because if you get lost, there is nobody around to ask
The organization by ZalaZ is perfect. There is always somebody available via phone or WhatsApp and you will have a wide variety of accomodation which includes homestays with local families, wooden huts and, the nicest surprise of all of them, a really nice 4 star hotel with fantastic mountain views.
I can definitly recommend Zalaz for people who want to enjoy nature and local culture away from the crowds.”

It was a dream

Vlatko — Thu, 12 Apr 2018 08:12:00 +0000

In April 2018, two cheerful Dutch ladies, Marjolijn and Liesbeth trekked the Mediterranean part of Montenegro. Marjolijn wrote the day-by-day diary:

Track the Roots in Montenegro
Zalaz
12-19 of April 2018, Marjolijn and Liesbeth

We arrived at Dubrovnik Airport half an hour late. But that is, what we learned later on, not a problem for Vlatko and his relaxed Montenegrin friends. The sun is shining and after a scenic route along the coast of Montenegro we arrive in Perast, the start of our six days hiking trip. Fresh seabass is prepared for us at dinner time.

The next morning we visit the small island in front of us in the bay; “Our Lady of the Rocks”. After that the boatman drops us of on the other side of the bay. A steep climb to an ancient village follows and our muscles are put to work straight away. We enjoy beautiful views, an abundance of wild flowers and we are sad about the loss of a pair of hiking boots. The hole sole comes off on top of the mountain and with some inventity my friend makes it down to Kotor alright.
We ring Vlatko for advice where to buy new shoes and Jadranka, his collegue, helps us out.

The next morning we hike the old city walls of Kotor, together with hundreds of tourist. But once we crowl through the “Alice-in-wonderland-hole in the wall”, we enter a totally different world. A lush green field, the remains of an old church, a big tree with a donkey grazing underneath. It’s a fairytale landscape and our camera’s run soon out of battery. Another steep climb follows with amazing views and a stream where we can fill our waterbottles. Just after lunchtime we reached Krstac pub where we order a salad, without tomatoes, because they are finished. Not to worry, we will have lots of tomatoes in the week to come and their taste is incredable! At the end of the afternoon we walk into Njegusi village and soon ten wooden cabins appear in sight. One will be ours for the night. A cold beer and a lovely lamb dinner do us good and we tuck in early fort he night. Tired from walking and all the impressions.

The next morning the sky is grey and we are a little confused about which path to take. Vlatko mentioned snow and the use of gaiters and GPS. We follow the GPS trail for a while and then turn it off the spare batteries. I read the map, but end up taking a different trail than Vlatko had in mind for us. We have some rain, and some snow covered trails, but nothing too difficult and we reach Hotel Monte Rosa mid-afternoon. What a surprise when the receptionist asks us if she would start the jaccusi for us!! Yes yes!!

A long day ahead of us, we make an early start. We entered Cetinje and visited the Monastery. Not in the mood for a museum, we are eager to walk again after a nice lunch. Again a steep climb rewarded with lots of flowers, blossoming fruittrees and even orchids! Passing a house we are waved in and offered a drink. We don’t speak the same language, but make a nice conversation about humming bees and gard dogs. The lady of the house brews us a nice mountain tea and we both buy a kilo of honey. After showing photo’s of our families, we go on our way again to find our place for the night. It is the familyhouse of Balsa, over more than 600 years. He is proud to tell us about it and shows us the paintings of his father, a famous a painter. The rest of the night we enjoy his stories, his raki and the lovely food prepared by his wife.

We sleep well and after breakfast, (fresh yoghurt, what a delight after the raki night ☺) we are on our way for a hike to Skadar lake, where a boatman is waiting for us. Our legs get a welcome rest while we can still enjoy the beuatiful countryside. We are unlucky in spotting Pelicans, but we are taken to a fish restaurant that hasn’t opened for he season yet, but the owner is more than happy to prepare us a wonderful lunch with freshly catched fishes. During the lunch we had a stunning view over the lake. From the restaurant it is another hour and a half by boat to Virpazar old town, and our place fort he night. We find the mountain-tea in a shop and we stroll up the hill to visit the castle. It is closed, but we find a rock in the sun, which gives us a beautiful view and the frogs treat us to a concert. The view over Skadar Lake, the biggest bird sanctuary of Europe, is stunning an we count ourselves blessed.

Breakfast next morning is pommygranate juice and fleshly fried doughballs. Very nice!
Another good start to a beautiful hiking day. We meet Balsa again as he is our driver to the start of this last day of walking. He knows the road by heart. I’m glad to be on my two feet again when we arrive. The road is narrow and curvy and the mountains are steep. Soon we are back on track, together with a flock of goats. They are not panting as I am, climbing up the hill, 700 altitude meters. A green lizzard is posing for us in the sun. We can take his picture. Over more than 400 pictures we took already! Tinned sardines with bread and tomatoes are our lunch on top of Belj. Ridge. What a stunning place with views to lake Skadar on the one side and the Adriatic on the other. Coming down proves a bit of a challenge; 700 altitude meters again and sometimes just a steel cable to hold on to. Just as we enter Stari Bar, Blavor is waiting for us and the last pictures are taken. Just in time, before he escaped into the very old olive trees.
We deceive a large and cold beer in Kula Hotel. We say cheers to the great trip, the hike, our friendship and life overall. How much did we enjoy it!!

Our backpacks filled with honey, olive oil and wine we meet Vlatko again at half past five in the morning. He will drive us back to Dubrovnik Airport. A scenic and enjoyable ride along he coast with lots of stories about the fantastic week we had.

Thank you Vlatko and friends, for sharing your country, stories, food, looks on life and hospitality!!

Marjolijn & Liesbeth

Track the Roots /Durmitor-Tara extended/ tour

Vlatko — Thu, 14 Sep 2017 00:49:54 +0000

Gesa and Matthias from Germany did the self-guided trek in south&north of Montenegro, September 2017. Here is their feedback:

Dear Vlatko,

our Montenegrin adventure was great fun. We enjoyed the hiking very much. All the sections had a proper distance and were very scenic. So we did never get bored. Some ascents were quite demanding, but it was always worth the effort. And we enjoyed the hard parts just as much as the easy ones. We liked best the great variety of landscapes along the track: Leading us from the Bay of Kotor up to Jezerski Vrh an then down to Lake Skadar within only 6 days was really amazing. And you did also pick very cozy accomodations. Each of them was a surprise to us. Because they were all special in their very own way. And all of our hosts did a great job as well. To sum up, we have to say that we liked EVERYTHING!

Nevertheless, we would like to point out some things that were our top favourites:
Best hiking section: Kotor-Njegusi
Best accomodation: Mr. Tatar at Ceklin (see attachment)
Best food: Restaurant at Karuc
Best transfer: our boat trip on Lake Skadar (our captain did a very good job)

And it was also good to go to Durmitor after doing Track the Roots. That way we did experience a totally different part of Montenegro. And the rafting at Tara was a highlight of our trip. There happened to be a kayak festival at Camp Grab at that time. That was very entertaining.

I believe you prefer an accurate feedback, so appart from all the positive things I would like to tell you some minor drawbacks that we did not like so much: Our accomodation at Njegusi was comfortable and beautifully located. We liked them very much, but our mattrasses were a disaster. You could feel every single spring.
The second thing I have to mention is our room at Camp Grab: We did not stay in one of the wooden cabins, but in a double room. Unfortunately there was no heating. We were told that electricity was too weak for heating. And it did get freezing cold at night. Our room was at a shady spot so it did not heat up during the daytime as well. Our window did not close properly, so it was almost like camping. Unfortunately we were not prepared for camping. So our last two nights were a bit extreme.

But nevertheless our trip was very, very good. And we are very happy that we entrusted you with the arrangements. You did a great job. Thank you!

Best regards
Gesa & Matthias

Cheers. Toby.

Vlatko — Sun, 02 Jul 2017 23:00:07 +0000

Toby and Lizzy from Australia trekked the self-guided route in July 2017. Toby wrote:

gday vlatko,

made it to the airport super swiftly this morning and i have no problems at all in writing a few words for your website but i would be cutting our feelings of thanks short because we had such a great time and i have never travelled so easily and at the same time been able to experience so much in short stretch of time. your network of associates who help execute the tour are top notch people and know how to welcome a traveller to a very foreign land. i have not a single hesitation recommending the hike we did and even though i haven’t done one of your group hikes i know they would be first class too. your business is a testament to your work ethic and no stone of organisation is left unturned when dealing with zalaz. once again. thanks and do videnja (til next time)

tobycool7@hotmail.com

track the roots

Vlatko — Tue, 30 May 2017 22:58:57 +0000

Eelco and Caroline Wolting from Holland did the self-guided tour in the south of Montenegro. They wrote this letters:

Dear Vlatko and Jadranka,

We like to thank you again for the perfectly organized tour (Track the roots). We had a lovely time thanks to you and your team.
Beautiful walks and very nice hosts. A lot of variety in the landscape, but also in the b&b’s/hotels. Each day was a new adventure!

We wil certainly recommend this tour to everyone who likes hiking.

We added some photos to this message. You can post these photos on the website.

Good luck with organizing the tours,

With kind regards,
Eelco and Caroline from Holland

Montenegro hiking / Timo&Leena

Vlatko — Fri, 26 May 2017 22:09:18 +0000

Timo and Leena Olkkonen from Finland visited Montenegro in May 2017. Below are their self-guided tour’s impressions:

Warm thanks for the amazing week we had hiking in Montenegro. We were very pleased with all arrangements, you’ve done a wonderful job planning ‘Track the roots’.

Each day was different compared to one another, but also within the day – the trails varied from rocky paths to forest paths so there was never a dull moment on the way. The scenery was, of course, unbelievable and breathtaking. The maps and the booklet were excellent. The trails weren’t too easy – they gave the right amount of challenge and it was exciting to wonder what kind of accommodation waited for us each night. After a while we had no worries about that – the places we stayed at were all very good and they were refreshingly different. From private homes to cottages and hotels. It was nice to meet the local people and learn about the history of Montenegro. We also enjoyed the boat ride on Skadar Lake very much.

We gladly recommend your hiking tour to others. We’re over fifty and in normal physical condition – enough water and the right amount of nourishing food along the way and there were no problems what so ever.

A fascinating walk

Ulrike — Fri, 11 Sep 2015 12:38:51 +0000

Richard and Hanne from Norway, hiked in September 2015. This what they said:

Hi Vlatko!

I take the opportunity while we wait for Darko to pick us up here in Stari Bar to thank you for your services and for your choices for this trip. We have experienced a great variety of tracks, villages, flora and settings from the coast, via the mountains, lake Skadar and back to the sea.

It has been a fascinating walk along abandoned routes and deserted villages, as well as lively urban and rural areas. We send many thanks to the people of long ago who spent so much effort to create these paths, and to your and others who have cleared and marked them for use in our time. We encourage Montenegrins to continue this work, to make them accessible for use in new ways, as a proud part of their heritage.

It struck me that some parts of the trails would, with some additional clearing, lend themselves to outback cycling. Not perhaps the goal of you and me, but this is a tourist segment that can be considered. The tracks will easily support the type of wear and tear that trail cycling would result in.

We noticed and appreciated the recent painting, and also the clearing of vegetation. We contributed in a small way by some additional clearing of loose branches as we went along, knowing that every contribution helps make life better for all users.

We had seldom any problems finding our way, thanks to the clear visibility of the paths themselves, and the maps, supported by the instructions. There were a few places where the map was inaccurate, in particular Day 3 to Lovcen, where the map brought us via a section that was not cleared, and at the top, but these were minor issues. (I took the liberty to make some minor corrections in red on the map at this part). May I perhaps suggest that you go for the more direct route to Monte Rosa, since the more western route is not very functional nor does it show the village life well. However, these are only minor things.

Staying with Balsa for two nights was a good choice. We had many good conversations with him about history and politics, and appreciated his suggestions for lunch and excursions.

A small point that you can perhaps improve is make it clear in the individual itinerary what to expect, both in the way of accommodation and the BB/HB details. Our disappointment in Monte Rosa was partly to lack of knowledge of what to expect, and perhaps also a language issue on the waiter, who seemed rude but perhaps was embarrassed not being able to speak English better. We expected to pay for dinner, as nothing was mentioned, and looked forward to a nice dinner in a fine restaurant after a sweaty walk, and were not happy to be ushered out into a dark, dismal side room and only allowed a very limited selection of courses. With better information this would have not been an issue.

We were otherwise content, and very happy with the very nice hotel here in Stari Bar, which is a prize after many days of walking and staying in rooms of more modest quality. It leaves us with a very favourable impression of the whole trip.

Best regards,

Richard

(cyclesanders@gmail.com)

Unique experience

Ulrike — Sat, 08 Aug 2015 11:50:10 +0000

Viktoria and Jeanette hiked with us in August 2015. They wrote:

If you’re looking for a unique experience to get to know Montenegro’s beautiful countryside and welcoming people: ZalaZ is the way to travel. Our self-guided Montenegro-Mediterranean 8 day hiking tour led us (2 German outdoor enthusiasts, female, age 32 and 42) from the buzzing costal region through local and sleepy villages across mountains and over impressive Skadar lake to our final destination: Old Bar– the home stays with Vlatko’s pals were definitely our highlights and are strongly recommended (even though we did enjoy the quieter nights at B’n’Bs or small hotels too…). August might have been a bit hot, however, is definitely doable if you don’t mind the heat.

Go explore – it’s worth it.

Viktoria

(schnurks@posteo.de)

The unforgettable week

Vlatko — Sat, 05 Apr 2014 20:15:30 +0000

After having a Montenegro hiking trip with four friends in April 2014,
Katrien Vissenaekens wrote:

I want to thank you again for the unforgettable week we spent in Montenegro last week.
It was the 11th time we organised ‘Destination Unknown’ for our friends.
For me, it certainly was one of the most varied ones: hiking from one place to another, every day in a different scenery, sleeping in different places (wooden huts, hotels, private rooms,…) all different, all perfect!
Everything was perfectly organised (accomodation, transfers, maps, guiding,…) which made it very relax to travel around.
Montenegro is really a country that surprised me in a very positive way: the hospitality of the people we met, the unspoilt nature,… I would certainly recommend the hike we made to everybody who likes walking. Spring was a great time for making this trip: temperature was good (not too hot, not too cold), nature was on its best (flowers, flowers, flowers,…), people were preparing for the high season, but it was still very calm…
We’ll keep these good memories in our heart…and we might come back!
Thank you, Vlatko, for taking care of this beautiful nature with your organisation!

Katrien!

vissenaekens@yahoo.com